Jozan
Magazine raises an interesting issue, to which I would like to contribute
a few observations. Beginning in the early 1980s, my wife and I have been
to Turkey several times. We have purchased many items and, usually, for
very
good prices. Here are a few of our favorite dealers, organized by city.
In Istanbul, don't miss Galelri Sirvan, Kesiciler Cadesi 55-57, in the
Grand Bazaar. The owner is Erol Kazanci, the dean of Turkish rug dealers.
Erol maintains a superb supply of relatively high-end pieces. He doesn't
bargain very much. We've bought several of our best rugs from him; and
paid
prices that were high, but fair considering quality.
In Ankara, try Kopmaz run by Ibrahim Geyikoglu--Koroglu Caddesi 103/B.
We've bought two antique pieces from Ibrahim, both of which needed
extensive restoration. The repair work was excellent, making use of wool
from old kilims. After several years, the repairs still aren't visible to
the naked eye. Prices are reasonable.
Also in Ankara, try the Angora Bazaar--Atpazari Caddesi 15/C, near the
Museum of Anatolian Civilizations--run by Muammer Uslu. The selection is
of medium quality but you will almost certainly find something of
interest, and
at very good prices.
In Konya. we've had excellent luck at three different places: Karavan (Mevlana
Caddesi 19/B), Genc Ortaklar (Young Partners)--Mevlana Caddesi 13/A, and
Kandil (Altin Carsi 9/D). The selection varies but we have always seem
many items that attracted us. Bargaining may reduce prices in all of these
places.
Other cities where we have enjoyed shopping and bought a few things in
shops for which we can't remember names are Diyarbikir and Van. Prices in
Van are higher than anywhere in Turkey, including Istanbul.
Just a word on bargaining. In many places it's expected of you but it's
more a form of social interaction that haggling over prices. Once in
Konya, we spent more than an hour, sitting on the floor in a shop,
discussing everything from the Caucasian bag we were considering to the weather and
thoughts about our personal situations. Finally, after asking everything
that we could think of about the bag, I raised the question of price,
planning to negotiate; but the dealer, instantly, offered It to us for
about 40 percent less than the initial price--a very good bargain and we
bought
it.
Finally, this bit of advice: when you get involved in bargaining, NEVER
offer a sum that you actually are unwilling to pay. It's the height of bad
manners to make an offer and then back out of it.
I hope that, somewhere in these ramblings, some of you find something
useful.
Greg Kimble
